Remote vertical blinds : Jacquard drapes
Remote Vertical Blinds
- A window blind is a type of window covering which is made with slats of fabric, wood, plastic or metal that adjust by rotating from an open position to a closed position by allowing slats to overlap. A roller blind does not have slats but comprises a single piece of material.
- Strips of fabric [louvres] suspended vertically from a headrail. Immensely practical blind which comes into it's own on larger sizes
- UpWindow treatment featuring vertical vanes that can be swiveled open and closed or opened in either a split or one-way stack.
- (of a place) Situated far from the main centers of population in a country
- remote control: a device that can be used to control a machine or apparatus from a distance; "he lost the remote for his TV"
- (of a place) Far away; distant
- distant: located far away spatially; "distant lands"; "remote stars"
- (of an electronic device) Operating or operated by means of radio or infrared signals
- outside: very unlikely; "an outside chance"; "a remote possibility"; "a remote contingency"
Stuka by Tony Homden
Here is a pic of my Stuka.I have modelled it on the "B" version which was
the most numerous. It is still under construction so far as the control system
is concerned, but you can get the flavour of the thing !
The fuselage makes extensive use of rolled flexible plates , there are only
four longerons which are cross braced , there are no bulkheads, the cross
section being dependant on the shaping of the plates. This keeps the weight
The wings were the hardest part ,I built one before starting on the
The wings had to accomodate pulleys for the ailerons and also to look right.
They are a bit thicker than scale but seem to look ok. The underside of the
inner sections are secured to the fuselage through the longeron girders
which lie within it's bottom curve while the top surfaces are bolted through
the more vertical part of the fuselage. This produces the correct angle
(near enough) The outer wing section are fitted to the bottom edge of the inner
wings with obtuse angle brackets which have bent to the required angle . Two,
twelve and a half inch strips are bolted to the underside of the inner wing
top surfaces and run out to the inner undersides of the outer wings. The
strips are parallel to each other and two and a half inches apart. The wings are
fully plated with a removable section in the top surfaces to allow access to
the aileron pulleys. A nine and half inch strip plate fills the space and is
secured by bolting down on the threaded cranks which are used as blind nuts.
To add exrtra support a rod runs through the fuselage and into the wing roots
and acts as a main spar.
The ailerons are loosely hinged to the wings and are weighted at their
trailing edges so that they drop down. The control cord is only used to lift them
, gravity returns them to the horizontal or downwards position.. This saves
having to run two sets of cords to each aileron.The elevators work on a
simliar principle.As the model is not intended to loop the loop this works fine !.
The flaps are fixed as it added too many complications to get them to extend
and drop and anyway in a dive they would not normally be operated. At least
thats what I think ,but not having a Stuka pilots operating manual, I could
not swear to it ! The dive brakes are shown in their operating position.
The fin is built around a hinged plate which allows it to be swung easily
to either side.
The cabin which has a sliding section is removable to allow access to the
control cords which exit the fuselage underneath and go down the support tower
to the remote joystick and rudder bar. The control is direct , no motors are
used. A PDU sits in the engine bay and drives the propellor directly . The
three bladed prop is built up on a six hole bush wheel using standard blades
mounted on strips to increase their radius. The conical (roughly) spinner
is built up using triangular plates and centres on the propshaft. All of the
prop bolts are double locknutted for safety . When first testing it at speed
I took the precaution of wearing industrial safety goggles !
The "bomb" under the fuselage is mounted in a swinging cradle as per the
protype and is lowered to clear the prop when it is released at the bottom of
the dive. The conical nose of the "bomb " is made using radial engine casings
from the 2S set. The" bomb" does not actually part company with the model !
There will be two more "bombs" under the wings.
As the model was designed to be mounted clear of the ground the landing
wheels do not have to take the weight of the model so are simply bracketed to the
To allow for transport the plane detaches from the support tower which
requires quick release couplings for the control cords but at the same time
allowing for easy reconnection.
I hope that gives you an idea of the thing.
I had an MB-D10 on my D300, and then I moved it over to the D300s. With the high powered EN-EL4A battery it did a good job.
I recently replaced it with an aftermarket external battery holder which also comes with an infrared remote control. I always keep the GPS on my hot shoe and plugged it, so being able to use a wireless remote control is a real advantage.
This particular one is marketed by Satechi. I bought it from Amazon. Amazon calls it a “LCD Timer Vertical Battery Grip for Nikon D300, D700 with Remote Control” It is a Jenis model ND300P. You can use AA nimh rechargeable batteries with it, or you can install two EN-EL3E batteries. So with the one already in your camera you now have three EN-EL3Es at your disposal. The instructions were translated from Chinese by an illiterate, half blind, retard so they are virtually undecipherable; but like with a digital watch you just play with it a while and you work it out.
It is really very cheap when compared to an MB-D10, an EN-EL4A battery, and the battery charger. I recommend it.
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